July 3, 2023 - Germany
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After departing Erfurt, we went a little out of our way to drive through Jena, and then drove to Wittenberg. The little town of Wittenberg was the adopted hometown of Martin Luther, and the birthplace of his Protestant Reformation. Wittenberg was part of communist East Germany but fortunately they didn't tear down the historic sites so the town is remarkably well-preserved. We started out in the Town Square. Here, Lynnette is checkout out a map of the Old Town. |
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Of course, a statue of Wittenberg's greatest son, Martin Luther, looks out over the town square.
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Another Wittenberg son and Reformation big name is Philipp Melanchthon (1497-1560), whose statue is also in the Town Square, pictured below. Melanchthon was a German Lutheran reformer, collaborator with Martin Luther, the first systematic theologian of the Protestant Reformation, an intellectual leader of the Lutheran Reformation, and influential designer of educational systems. He stands next to Luther and John Calvin as a reformer, theologian, and shaper of Protestantism. Melanchthon was perhaps even more brilliant than Luther. He taught several topics (specializing in ancient languages, pedagogy, and theology. Particularly gifted with languages, he provided Luter with invaluable assistance when translating the Bible into German from the original Greek and Hebrew texts. Melanchthon's importance for the Reformation lay essentially in the fact that he systematized Luther's ideas, defended them in public, and made them the basis of a religious education. These two figures, by complementing each other, could be said to have harmoniously achieved the results of the Reformation. Melanchthon was impelled by Luther to work for the Reformation; his own inclinations would have kept him in academia. While Luther scattered the sparks among the people, Melanchthon had the sympathy of educated people and scholars. Both Luther's strength of faith and Melanchthon's calmness, temperance and love of peace, had a share in the success of the movement. Both were aware of their mutual position and they thought of it as a “divine necessity”. |
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In the centre of the old town is the generously proportioned market square, where a harmonious ensemble of town houses has grown up over the centuries. On it are the Renaissance town hall, the monuments to Martin Luther (designed by Schadow) and Philipp Melanchthon (by Drake), as well as the Marktbrunnen. Since the town administration has been located in the former Tauentzien barracks in Lutherstraße beginning in 2000 (New Town Hall), the town hall on the market square has been called the Old Town Hall and has since served more representative purposes. | ||||||
A mirror world-globe.
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The Town Church of St. Mary, where Luther preached, overlooks the town square. | ||||||
Flowers in boots.
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We stayed at this hotel for two nights. Perfect location, all the sights a short walk away, ample parking out back, nice breakfast; highly recommended. | ||||||
To get to the Luther House, we had to pass through a 16th-century college building called the Augusteum. It was once an extension of the University of Wittenberg "Leucorea". |
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Lynnette standing outside the Luther House where Martin Luther lived and worked for more than 35 years. He moved into the building as an unknown Monk in 1508. Being a professer of theology at the University, it was here that he prepared his lectures. In 1532, ownership of the building was transferred to him, and he inhabited it until his death in 1546. |
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You go through the Augusteum building, and cross a courtyard to get to the Luther House. We got to the Luther House somehow but not by crossing the courtyard. So we never really saw the outside of the Luther House. Here it is, courtesy of Wikipedia. In this picture, the Augusteum building is on the right and the Luther House is on the left. |
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In front of the Luther House. | ||||||
A good shot of the giant, turreted building. Not really a house, this was originally a monastery. Luther lived here first as a monk and again later, after he had married Katharina von Bora. Frederick the Wise, a prince elector who took Luther under his wing, gave the building to Luther as a gift when he married Katharina von Bora. Katharina rented out rooms to students, and kept the family fed and watered by cultivating a garden, brewing beer ad even breeding cattle. | ||||||
The right side of Luther House. | ||||||
A statue of Luther's wife Katharina, erected on her 500th birthday in 1999. The sculpture symbolizes her leaving her former life at a nunnery and beginning a new one with Martin Luther. | ||||||
Luther's former home has been converted into a museum. Here is a model of Wittenberg during Luther's time. At bottom left is Lutherhaus. At center is the Church of St. Mary. At top is the Church of All Saints (Castle Church). Our hotel was perfectly situated just down the main street from the Castle Church. | ||||||
"This is Martin Luther's original lindenwood pulpit from the Town Church of St. Mary. Notice how relatively humble it is -- imagine him climbing up to the top and bringing the Reformation message to a packed church." ... Rick Steves
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The rear of the pulpit. Only fancy on the front! | ||||||
The first printed version of Luther's 95 Theses. | ||||||
Some of the 95 Thesis in English. | ||||||
The first ever portrait of a young Martin Luther, engraved by Lucas Cranach the elder in 1520. Out of political caution, this portrait of the Reformer was not published during Luther's own lifetime.
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In 1516 Lucas Cranach the Elder was commissioned by the town council to create this painting -- The Ten Commandments -- for the courtroom in the old town house. It now hangs in the refectory. Each square represents one of the ten commandments -- either being followed - or broken. |
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Luther's household grew large. At peak, between 35 and 50 people lived at his house, including his own five children, an Aunt, six orphaned nieces and nephews, 10-20 boarding students, and 10 employees. Not to mention friends and guests. This is a model of the main meal during late morning or early evening in the former refectory of the monastery.
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Fancy lecture hall. | ||||||
Cranach painting of Friedrich III the Wise, Luther's protector. They never met officially. | ||||||
This is the "Lutherstube" -- the room with benches, a stove, and the table where Luther engaged in spirited conversations with his colleagues. | ||||||
What conversations must have taken place in this very spot.
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In 1716, Russian Czar Peter the Great visited here and put his initials at the top of this door. | ||||||
Another Luther portrait by Cranach, done in 1540. On the right is a portrait of Philipp Melanchthon, also done by Cranach. | ||||||
A portrait of an older Luther, by Lucas Cranach the Younger.
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Luther talking among colleagues. | ||||||
This room contained rare documents and manuscripts. Many are booklets that Luther authored and Cranach illustrated. Luther sold more than a quarter million books and was the best-selling German author of the 16th century.
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The original first complete edition of Luther's Bible translation in the High German language (1534). | ||||||
Wittenberg in 1536.
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This is the Church of All Saints (Castle) Church, where on October 31, 1517 Martin Luther hammered his 95 Theses -- topics for discussion -- to the wooden door. (The door served as a sort of community bulletin board)). By 1517, discontent with the Catholic Church was so common that Luther's words promptly ignited a chain of protests that spread rapidly through a large part of Europe. Luther, therefore, is rightly considered to be the man chiefly responsible for the commencement of the Reformation." -- Michael H. Hart: The 100: a Ranking of the Most Influencial Persons in History. (Martin Luther is ranked #23.) | ||||||
This is the door where Luther nailed his 95 Theses. They were a bold attack on the Roman Catholic Church's practice of "selling letters of indulgence that promised 'forgiveness for all thy sins, transgressions, and excesses'". For only a $29.95! Of course, the old wooden door is long gone and has been replaced by a bronze door with the 95 Theses in Latin engraved on it. Above the door is an image of the crucified Christ flanked by Luther (on the left) and his fellow Reformer Philipp Melanchthon (on the right), with the skyline of Wittenberg behind them. |
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"Luther didn't set out to start a new church; he wanted to reform the existing one." -- Rick Steves
Most of the church as it existed in Luther's time was destroyed in 1760 during the Seven Years' War. It was rebuilt in the late 19th century.
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Next to the Castle Church was a little but interesting museum. What struck me was how many influencial and enabling friends Martin Luther had. Without them things might have been quite different for Luther. The most important friend might have been Friedrich der Weise -- a man who Luther never met face-to-face as far as is known -- who protected Luther from the Pope and Catholic Church who would not have minded if Luther had been burned at the stake. While Prince Elector Frederick remained devoutly Catholic throughout his life, his support for Luther, Melanchthon , and the early Protestant Reformers never wavered. Other friends included Philipp Melanchthon (mentioned earlier) and Lucas Cranach: painter, illustrator, influencer, and owner of printing presses that churned out Luther's pamphlets. Louis Cranach the Elder was a German Renaissance painter and printmaker in woodcut and engraving. He has been considered the most successful German artist of his time. He was the only painter who had permission to do portraits of Luther and his family. Cranach and his school produced and reproduced some 2,000 Luther portraits, and he was on eof the first printers of Luther's writings. He was court painter to the Electors of Saxony for most of his career, and is known for his portraits, both of German princes and those of the leaders of the Protestant Reformation, whose cause he embraced with enthusiasm. He was a close friend of Martin Luther. Cranach also painted religious subjects, first in the Catholic tradition, and later trying to find new ways of conveying Lutheran religious concerns in art. His son Lucas Cranach the Younger and others continued to create versions of his father's works for decades after his death. |
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Georg Spalatin (1484-1545) was another friend who played a key role in Luther's story. As a close adviser of Prince Elector Friedrich the Wise, it was Spalatin who found the right argument to convince his territorial ruler not to hand Luther over to papal jurisdiction. The reputation of the University was important to Friedrich the Wise. Spalatin argued it would damage the reputation of Wittenberg University if Friedrich assented to the sentencing of Luther as a heretic. Thanks to Spalatin's exact knowledge of the characters of the two men and his diplomatic skill, Friedrich the Wise came to support Luther's Reformation ideas, which often ran counter to his own personnel understanding of devout piety. Luther was well aware that Spalatin was shielding him from a heresy trial in Rome. Spalatin was one of Luther's earliest companions; they were life-long friends. | ||||||
Beginning the long climb up to the top of the Castle Church tower. | ||||||
Looking out over Wittenberg. That's the Town Church of St. Mary at top center, which was "Luther's home church -- where he was married, where his children were baptized, and where he preached over 2,000 times. This is where what many consider to be the first-ever Protestant service took place, on Christmas Day in 1521. (Luther was hiding out at Wartburg Castle at the time.) The readings were in German (not Latin), communion was taken by everyone (not just priests), and hymns were sung by the congregation, a radical thing at the time." -- Rick Steves.
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Looking down at the Castle Church spire. | ||||||
From this high ground, you can see the River Elbe.
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Looking west. | ||||||
Now we're inside of the "All Saints" or Castle Church. |
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Beautiful stained glass windows behind the alter. At lower right is the tomb marker for Friedrich the Wise'syounger brother, John the Steadfast. On the left side -- outside of this picture -- is the tomb marker for Friedrich the Wise himself. |
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In the middle of the church, in front of the pulpit, to the right, is Martin Luther's burial site. He died in 1546. |
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Hanging on the wall is a replica of the large bronze tomb marker that originally covered Luther's remains. |
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Opposite of Luther's tomb, on the left side of the church, is Philipp Melanchthon's tomb. He died in 1560. Frederick the Wise, who died in 1525, is also buried in Castle Church. Beautiful stained glass windows. |
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Huge organ in the rear of the church.
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Statue of Saxonian prince-elector Frederick III, "the Wise" | ||||||
We didn't think the Town Church of St. Mary would be open today but we lucked out and it was. St. Mary's Town Church and Parish Church is the mother church of the Reformation. The first Protestant service was held in it in 1521 by Justus Jonas the Elder and Andreas Bodenstein of Karlstadt. As Martin Luther's preaching church, it was the Reformation official church of the general superintendents of the Saxon Kurkreis. The Church was built in the 14th century, but has been much altered since Luther's time. |
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This big altar painting was by Lucas Cranach the Elder -- who else? -- and represented the Last Supper (at center with the faces of Luther and other reformers), Baptism (at left) and Confession (at right). At bottom Luther preaches to an enthralled grou of worshippers.
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Looking back at the big organ. | ||||||
Lynnette standing by the pulpit. | ||||||
The last thing we did in Wittenberg was to check out the "Luther 1517" 360 Panorama by Berlin artist Yadegar Asisi. We had seen the Asisi's "Pergamon Altar" 360 Panorama in Berlin when we were therea few years ago and enjoyed it. This one was equally good. | ||||||
The marketplace in Wittenberg. A line is formed up at lower left buying Indulgences from the Catholic Church. St. Mary's Church is in the background at center.
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Martin Luther arguing with someone about indulgences. | ||||||
The Castle Church and its famous "bulletin board" door. In front, Luther talks to a crowd.
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Close-up of Luther in front of the Castle Church side door.
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Catholic priest wondering wha tis going on. | ||||||
Luther and friends planning strategy around a barrel. | ||||||
Luther at right while Cranach the Older paints his portrait. | ||||||